February 29 

Leap year! Tomorrow is March already. I purposely got up early to get onto Wifi to pay some bills, but even at 5am it’s not connecting. 

My little friends playing with fruit baskets

Tending the garden

The good news….While in town the other day we signed up to have an “inspection” which is necessary for hooking up to cable. Since we’re on the main road (ha!) and the line goes right by us it shouldn’t be a problem. But who knows……Anyway, it’s at least a month away. (I can’t wait to NOT complain about lousy wifi.)

Female red butts

Local restaurant - Gabby's

Toilet planter

Low tide

Adjusting Well

Anyway, I’ve obviously REALLY adjusted well to being here because we invited friends for dinner last week and I was a day behind. I finally realized it when I looked at my phone at dinner time and panicked. It said Thursday (all day I was on Wednesday time). After an apologetic call to them explaining the problem, I was relieved that they were quite understanding about postponing. (Now some of my good buddies will not be as surprised because I have been known for a few of these type of events in the US as well!). 

Briana comes for yoga

Launch Time

5:30 am: The ‘boys” across the street are launching one of their pangas for a fishing trip. There’s always a lot of macho yelling involved in rolling a 25 foot boat down the beach on balsa logs through the surf. Not easy! The whole family - Lalo, the dad, and his sons are beefy, strong guys (not to mention quite handsome) , who are accustomed to hauling these boats and their gear around. Because we are located at the mouth of the Golfo (gulf) it’s not far for them to reach schools of yellowfin tuna, mahi and other deep water fish. Aside from fishing, their other mainstay is taking surfers across the Golfo to an offshore rock at Matapolo. They include going shore for lunch and a swim, and possibly fishing and dolphin watching. It’s on my list, sans the surfing. I’ll let Ray do that part.

Cherries tanager - male

Hummingbird clean up

Birds Everywhere

A few days ago two families of house wrens fledged out. One family by the carport, and the other out back along the fence line. Young wrens and their parents were chattering and buzzing away for several days all around us. Meanwhile, some late fledgling “red butts” are still begging from their parents in the limon tree. Since the beach almonds are now mature, we have a steady stream of scarlet macaws that peruse the beach in search of their favorite treat. Yesterday, I watched one of the little hermit hummingbirds fly along each beam of the underside of our deck in search of a stray spider or insect we may not have cleared out on a recent cleaning frenzy. 

Cicada pee

March 1

Cicada Pee!

While taking an early morning hike up the mountain yesterday, K and I discovered a tree that appeared to be squirting water from its branches. Pretty amazing! It’s always a strenuous, but beautiful rainforest hike up the “ATV” trail. I probably sweated off a half gallon of water during the two and half hours! K checked it out online and discovered that the “rain” is actually cicada pee. These 2 inch long insects emerge from the ground and take to the trees in vast numbers at this time of year. They consume leaves and blossoms of trees. So, of course, their food being mainly water, is excreted back out. These suckers make a very loud kind of shrill buzzing in unison that rises to an almost deafening crescendo, then subsides, only to pulse back up again. These guys continue day and night, so it’s pretty noisy. The cicadas can actually drown out the howler monkeys at times! 

PS: We now have cicada pee in our trees, too!

The weekly tanker that
picks up the palm oil in Golfito

Signs of Progress?

Since I haven’t done that hike in almost a year I was surprised/ impressed/depressed to see the trail was now more of a road, and there were a number of newly cleared properties with magnificent views for whoever builds there. Speaking of…. there is definitely more traffic than last year. 

Signs are common - and we have once a week pickup!

Local farmers still dry their beans on the soccer field

The local lads are grown up now, and all driving motorcycles. More cars - some tourists, and more locals. And there is some major infrastructure going on with all the small bridges. They are getting new cement conduits, and actual concrete bridges - maybe with safety railings even! Lots of dump trucks and heavy equipment rumbling by. It’s been quite busy. It’s got to be nerve wracking for the truck drivers to negotiate some of these old bridges that are barely one lane and always steep downhills and sharp curves. Still, 15+ years ago there were no bridges, you just drove across the rivers. And….. if it was the rainy season with high waters, you stayed put. Only 25 years ago there were four telephones in town, and no cell phones! Also, I watched a really large (Carnival type) cruise ship enter the Golfo last week presumably to go to Golfito. Ughhh!

Cruise ship coming into the Golfo

Another by product of more traffic is accidents such as the kid who wiped out on his motorcycle last week, and had to be towed away by his friend’s motorbike in the middle of the night. Also, Zsa Zsa, one of “the girls,” got clipped by a motorbike this afternoon. (She’s OK)

Original bridge made from old Banana Company
train rails

Can’t Get Away From Raking 

Unlike NY, when we rake dry leaves in the fall, here, many trees lose their leaves during the dry season, before sprouting new growth from the spring rains. We spent yesterday raking not only the yard, but some of our many roofs. 

After the clean

Before the clean

Not only was there is a large accumulation of twigs, branches, dead flowers, But lots of monkey and iguana poop! Thank goodness for a leafblower. which made lighter work. The dogs thought the leaf piles were great for their doggy siestas. They spent the afternoon trying out the different piles like Goldilocks. Boquette, our shaggy dog, ended up covered in bits of leaves and branches, looking even more unkempt than usual. It was quite reminiscent of fall yard maintenance in NY, except the temperature and humidity is considerably higher.

Newly painted bathroom

Painting Frenzy

We never quite finished painting the guest container two years ago so I decided to tackle the walls and shelves of the bathroom. Pink and orange - quite colorful! Today, our little five-year old friend, Briana came for the day. She joined us early for yoga, stayed for breakfast, helped me water plants, did some cleaning (she loves to clean - and use gallons of soap!). After lunch she hung out with me as I painted, and we finally sent her off at 5 o’clock. The whole day she never stopped chattering and singing. Pretty cute. She’s very proud of herself for writing her own, and her parents’ names!

Dogs enjoy the leaf piles

Nocturnal Stirrings

A few nights ago, we had a couple of evening showers. Possibly the rains and/or a new moon brought out an explosion of very colorful land crabs. Around eight in the evening I heard a lot of crackling, rattling sounds, and there were the dogs lying in their beds surrounded by crabs marching past them. I would guess at least 50, emerging from under the container and cruising around the patio and walkway. The crustaceans didn’t seem to faze the dogs, and neither did the 4-5 giant toads hopping among the crabs. 

More Housework 

A pretty pathetic story - Ray decided to clean the main fan we use regularly located between the kitchen and bedroom areas…… I thought that our floor fan was dark grey or black. Well, after he pulled it apart for a thorough cleaning, it magically turned light blue and grey. Yuchhh! And incredibly - it works much more efficiently! 

Boatyard Blues

We visit Golfito regularly a couple of times a week now to check in on Ray’s boat. Eli and his son, Josue, have been replacing the teak cap rail with fiberglass - a much more practical solution here, where the wood takes a beating from the sun and rain. The teak planking on the cabin top and the last of the wood decking is gone and repaired, where the old fastenings had decayed and leaked into the cab below. All the deck hardware is off, along with the rear pushpit and associated rigging. The engine is out and will be replaced. 

Restored cabin top - no more leaking fasteners

Last of the cap rail repair

The restoration is a huge undertaking, but the boat has “good bones,” so Ray feels it’s worth the effort. It’s very familiar for me to be a “boatyard rat” again, as I have spent lots of time restoring and working on boats, both wooden and fiberglass. It’s a much more pleasant experience now just showing up to help supervise and provide materials, and let someone else do the actual work! 

Meanwhile, last week a beautiful old wooden sailboat was towed over to the yard the day before we visited Ray’s boat, then sunk (accidentally) at the dock. The boat had been moored for many years across the Golfo in increasingly disrepair. The owner’s daughter had been living aboard for some time, and had not really kept up on maintenance. Not that keeping a 55 foot, 80 year old wooden boat is easy, or cheap, especially in the tropics!! 

Nevertheless, it was sad to see her underwater, and when we returned the other day, it was being stripped out for salvage. Built in 1941, she was recruited by the US Navy in WWII as a troop carrier in the South Pacific, and eventually ran charters in the Islands. I had a chance to roam around the hulk and admire the construction. Once her engine, tanks and salvageable hardware are removed she will be towed offshore and sunk. 

Photo of her better days

Also, condemned to a final resting place undersea were two decrepit school buses that had served first in the States, then revived for another career transporting Tico students. 

School bus's last journey

March 7

The Rodeo

A big event for Punta Banco, the next (even smaller town) from us was a three day rodeo. A makeshift arena, complete with bleachers, was erected at the soccer field in the middle of town next to the beach. Food, beer and T-shirt vendors (only one of each) were available, and a large mobile disco truck provided dancing and more partying after the rodeo finished. 

The festivities began mid afternoon with lots of socalizing, eating and beer drinking. At dusk the rodeo began with lots of music blaring from the huge speakers, and a beautiful horse that “danced” around the arena to the music. Then a contest of sorts involving the audience in the bleachers throwing their shoes, then belts, into the ring where groups of boys and girls, then men and women collected as many as they could to win a prize???? I think I missed something here….  This was followed by another contest to see which testosterone filled local youth (the young “studleys” - my name for them) could remain the longest on a spinning saddle. The saddle was mounted on a rickety cart connected to its axle, so the faster the cart was pulled the faster the saddle spun. So the “spinner” and the cart puller studley had quite a physical challenge. 

The "disco" truck

The main event was the bull riding, where professional riders hung bareback onto the bucking animal as long as possible. Once the bull dumped the rider, it was free to try and charge the cadre of young “studleys” ( pretty much the same group of guys - only fueled by much more beer by this time) who were egging the poor confused animal on. It was pretty funny to see these macho guys daring the bull to charge them, only to scatter and scamper up the railings when the bull came anywhere near. The announcer’s comments, the music blaring and the audience cheering made it quite chaotic.  

The spinning saddle ride

A good crowd of several hundred

One poor bull, once freed of its rider, calmly started munching on the grass, totally ignoring the studleys, who edged increasingly nearer trying to get him to charge. The rodeo wound down around 8:30 as the disco lights and music started cranking up nearby. This was our opportunity to head home for some peace and quiet.  It was well past nine after driving the bumpy, dusty road - way past our bedtime!

The "young studleys" try to antagonize the bull

This guy just wanted to be left alone and chow down

A Health Note:

The news here is obsessed (as everywhere in the world) with the Corona virus. Yesterday’s news reported that all large public functions ( festivals, concerts, sporting events, even religious events) are canceled indefinitely. Schools and universities are closing left and right, and government and other employees are being urged to telecommute whenever possible. I believe there are only a handful of confirmed cases in CR and supposedly connected to an American tourist. So, even though we are pretty remote here, the virus is taking its toll. And because CR relies heavily on tourism it will have a big economic effect. Meanwhile, I’m sure this weekend was the last rodeo for a while, also.  

Score: Bugs - 1 (or is it “won?”)  Gill - 0

Leafcutters

To live here in the jungle is a constant battle to stay on top of mildew and insects. We’ve got the dog’s wildlife under control with worming, flea and tick medicine. Vigilant sweeping and wiping down with bleach and soap keeps the mildew and dust at bay. We try and ensure no mosquitoes have a chance to breed in water containers and the sitting pool. But controlling ants and termites is another story. 

During my gardening I recently discovered a considerably large nest of leaf cutter ants. In their own environment these fascinating recyclers carefully harvest leaves and farm a particular fungus which serves to keep the ecosystem of the forest happy. However, as more and more of my plants ended up leafless, I started my elimination campaign. First, I tried environmentally safe silica powder - supposed to break their skin down and kill’em. No good.  After a few weeks with no success, I succumbed to using a pretty nasty chemical which I poured down each anthole. So far, it seems to be working….. But, time will tell. 

The leafcutters have been working on my little tree

Termitos

Meanwhile, another decomposer - the termite - seems determined to outdo us. Two weeks ago I found a good sized nest just above out upstairs bedroom on the cocobolo tree which we built our deck around. In just a couple of weeks it doubled in size, so I sprang into action. I traced numerous trails from the ground along our container supports and running up to the nest. Once again, I got out the nasty chemical and spent yesterday morning crawling around underneath the deck and container scraping the trails, and slathering the base of the supports with the poison.

Vespers

We are also hosting quite a variety of wasps, who luckily leave us alone, as we do them. One pair of yellow booted mud dabber wasps in particular, have created several mud tubes for their nest on the wall of the kitchen. They navigate carefully around us as they go about their business, barely cruising past us at times. A number of paper wasp nests hang above the carport and a few more can be found on the outside of the guest container and even behind a curtain. As long as they do not pose a threat I don’t mind them staying. Our hive of tiny honey bees is still intact in the palm trunk holding up the carport. They recently swarmed meaning some were off to find another home, perhaps. 

Ray caught me removing termite trails under the container

And, Ray’s Favorite….

Someone’s been eating my clothes!! My most comfortable “housedress” first had an inch diameter hole in it. A couple of days later, a few more. Then another dress. Although I’ve never caught one in the act, the only bug capable of the dirty deed seems to be the lowly cockroach. We don’t have many, but every few days we catch a good 1 1/2’er  incher skittering around. And since we are pretty careful about leaving food around, I guess clothes are a second best. Anyway, my clothes are now safely tucked away in zip lock bags containing a bar of soap and silica gel packs. 

March 10

I think I’ll be able to get this out today, at a friend’s house. Stay safe and well!

Yellow flowers that have been showering our driveway from a nearby tree

GREETINGS FROM COSTA RICA: PART TWO

Wildlife

As I’m sitting here on the deck at sunrise, it’s a warm, peach colored dawn. Above me the local howler monkey family of about 10 individuals is in the tree directly above the container. For the past four days they have been camped out feasting on ping pong sized figs. Incredibly messy eaters, they take a bite, then discard the rest of the fruit, so we have a continual “rain” of noisy figs that bounce off the tin roof sounding more like baseballs hitting it. 

The well hung dominant male taking a siesta.....

Along with half eaten figs are branches, leaves, and monkey droppings! Watch Out!  They begin waking up and howling at 4;00am. They periodically snack at night as well as dawn and dusk. Then during the heat of the day they drape themselves over the branches and zzz out. It’s primarily the big adult male that makes the racket, but the young make continual cheeps and whines - probably as reassurance that their family is nearby. At least two babies are now feeding on their own, whereas last spring they were always clinging to their mom. It’s very, very cool.

Our usual flock of blue grey, and “red butt” tanagers still hang out in the nearby limon tree waiting for us to provide overripe bananas, papaya and pineapple skins. Sometimes they nearly fly into us on the deck if we sit still. In the thick of the limon tree are several babies that have recently fledged out. They perch quietly until Mom or Dad shows up, then they quiver and bleat until they get fed. 

Our little house wren wails away all day, and I recently spied her nest in the hollow metal supports of the carport. The huge orange tulip-like blossoms on the trees along our neighbor’s fence host flocks of squawking parrots and parakeets every morning. A pair of piratic flycatchers (well named) has aggressively driven away the woodpeckers who had nested in an old tree branch. Meanwhile, scarlet macaw pairs sporadically pass through noisily announcing their presence. By fine tuning my observation skills, I can usually spy a few tiny hummingbirds flitting through the plants in search of spiders and small insects, or sipping on nectar from the heliconia cups. I love it!

Free Meal

We cover the really ripe bananas  with a towel so the birds don’t peck at them. yesterday, I uncovered them to find a gecko happily munching on the captive fruit flies that were trapped under the towel. 

We recently visited a good friend, B from California, who has come to spruce up his Pavones home before renting it out again. Among his accomplishments: a hand dug, 15 foot well, removing loads of batshit in his  attic, and upon sorting out his bodega (shed) he discovered a 6 foot boa that he is now cohabiting with. I admire his concern for the snake as many people would automatically kill it. The snake sleeps its day away in a plastic shopping bag. I have a soft spot for snakes. You may recall my pet 10 ft. boa, Clyde, who lived in my classroom and home for almost 15 years.

Looking down the well

The opening to the well

small bridge comprised of old railroad ties from the banana company

Blossoms Everywhere

We’re at the height of CR summer (their winter is the rainy season - our summer). Huge trees full of pink flowers line the beaches and dot the hillsides this week. I was disappointed to learn that the “amarillo” trees - full of bright yellow blooms just finished their colorful display just before my return. Above the container another tree with tiny pink flowers fills the air with a light delicate fragrance. When you examine many trees with binoculars you discover many are full of flowers, too, but their blooms are much more subtle.

Updates: February 20

I’ve fallen right back into the rhythm of life here. Up at 4:30 with the first birds, from living room (deck) looking over the shimmering sunrise colors of the Golfo to the layers of purple mountains of the Osa Peninsula beyond.A cool breeze still slides down the mountainside behind us.  It’s as if the volume gets turned up as the bird calls become more varied and frequent and louder as the light brightens. A magical time of the day. The only time I can write with no interruptions and a cleared mind from resting al night.

Ray and I are getting back into doing yoga most mornings before breakfast. Between that,  swimming and walking the beach, and tackling a few projects here and there I’m feeling very healthy and well centered. I’ve been gradually catching up with friends and neighbors, too, which is  important. And, Mr. Ray seems to be pretty happy (and mellow, thank goodness!) to have me back home. Life is good, Sabah!

A Note About the Beach

I’ve recently added a morning swim and beachwalk to my repertoire. The 80 plus degree water is flat calm in the morning, very conducive for swimming, and as usual, there is no one on the beach. For sea creatures such as ourselves it can’t get too much better. We are usually watched over by not only our dogs, but the neighbors’ as well, who wait patiently at the water’s edge until we emerge refreshed. 

Ready to swim with no sun exposure
Dorky, but safe

Well Read

I’ve actually read two very good books since arriving. One, “Elephant Company,” is a true story of an Englishman who worked in the Burmese Teak forestry the early 1900’s. “Elephant Bill’s” knowledge, understanding and love for the elephants in his charge is set in the backdrop of Colonial times and the outbreak of WWII. 

The other outstanding read is entitled, “An Elegant Defense, the Immune System” by Matt Richtel.  Not only does he trace the advances in our understanding of our extremely complex immune system and the medical advances that are saving lives and relieving suffering, but he explains it in lay terms so it is (relatively) easy to understand. It is also a very personal story as he is drawn into relationships with researchers, patients and their doctors, with many whom he becomes close to. In particular, he chronicles the struggles of a childhood friend with Hodgkins  lymphoma. Richtel chronicles his own journey of examining the quality of life and death, from a human point of view, but also as a larger part of evolution of our species. After all, the immune system evolved as did we to combat diseases, injuries, even wild animal attacks and hardships that many of us can only think about. So, basically when we encounter dirt, fur, pollen, etc. - it’s building up our immune system. (Does that account for gecko, monkey and iguana poop, too?)

His wholistic view of the immune system is compared with human culture, and the importance of keeping a balance, and the many facets that must work together to make a healthy person, and culture. He stresses that to reach this point of knowledge involved researchers from all across the globe working and cooperating together for years - just as the many systems within the immune system do. Barriers, such as country borders, prejudices and ignorance stand in the way of a system working properly. Another important thread running through the book is the importance of good nutrition, plenty of exercise, keeping stress low and getting plenty of sleep (something I’ve been meditating on…) to keep the immune system thriving. Living a good life, in other words.

Another view

I’ve had a couple of days now to tackle the plantings around the two containers. The first step was cutting back the huge oregano. I’ve been trimming, replanting and moving, to create a semblance of order - to my liking, of course - which is tremendously satisfying.  Lots more to go!

Greetings From Costa Rica: February 2020: Part One

GREETINGS FROM COSTA RICA: PART ONE

February 13, 2020

Well, where to begin? I hate to forewarn you, but this is a long one in two parts!!! I'm trying my hand at the BlogSpot to see if it's easier to use than email......

Weather in FL was very warm well into January, so I spent lots of time beaching: swimming, birding, walking and soaking up the rays. “The girls” joined me and we all survived, even thrived!, together in our little dwelling. We joined Melissa’s yoga class at the campground a couple of times a week - a treat. Lots of hiking, birding and some great meals at home and out. Some good music venues - thanks to Ms. R., and, for me - a huge treat was a Jessie Cook concert (Flamenco guitar). Although we missed having Terry at the campground, she and Ron were nearby, so we had some good visits. 

Eli, my "grand" nephew? feeds the gulls

We even visited the circus

A few funny incidents: M, K and I found a wallet with lots of important stuff in it at the beach. What to do? After looking up online, we called the credit card company to report and ask them to possibly contact the owner. No luck. Went to the local police, but no solution. Meanwhile, sitting on the console that wallet kept reminding us “we should do something.” Finally, we returned to the beach and turned it over to the park police who promised to return it. Whew!

At the Sarasota Botanical Gardens

Cool night on the roof in Bradenton

Reddish Egret on the hunt

Every year, I appreciate the “Creek” and its inhabitants more and more. I wish there was more time in my rather overcrowded year to stay and hang out there. Just being able to drop the kayak in anytime is a rare treat. And I’d love to get to know some of my neighbors more…… As usual, wherever I go, there are some really interesting, good people. 

KB at her best....

Always a little bittersweet, I left Florida on the 1st and headed north. As a creature of habit my traveling buddy KB and I stopped by St. Augustine for a welcome visit with G. Always too short, we still managed to catch up and have some great “life” discussions. 

Bike covered in sponge

Sponges for sale in Tarpon Springs

Once in NC, I spent a couple of days shopping for last minute things, packing and repacking. Especially pertinent this year because I was hauling 100 pounds of car parts (ball joints, front axle, fuel pump (again!), and miscellaneous bits and pieces. 

Five inches of rain seemed a little excessive!
(Much like CR)

Night out with KB and Ron

Turns out the keyboard player is also Eli's music teacher

Also, because I’m going on to Newfoundland after CR, I had to bring cold weather clothes. Yet another big roll-on duffle bag to add to our collection. The problem is we bring these bags down to CR loaded, but don’t bring them back, so they accumulate.  

Yet Another Lifestyle Adjustment…

After spending a couple of days visiting Dad in NC, and of course, packing and repacking, I arrived in SJO along with R and B, and met up with a rather frazzled (might I say, grumpy?) Ray. Since the girls only had a few days with us we tried to cram in quite a lot. We managed to show them a few local sights, spent some time with a good friend, D, and sent them off to SJO on the small plane for their “real” tour of CR. 

R and B being touristas

Boat trip around the Golfo Dulce

2/8/2020: What a noisy place!

Unknown to us this past “fin de semana” (weekend) downtown Pavones hosted a fiesta which attracted many local young men and their friends on their noisy little Honda 150 motorbikes roaring past us in a cloud of dust, along with lots more sedate vehicles. Unfortunately, the local youth were out partying late, which meant the same noises went on during the night. This, in turn, set off all the neighborhood dogs yapping away. I must admit our little vigilant Boquette was probably the number one instigator. I remember the movie 101 Dalmations, where the dogs sent barking messages over the “telegraph.” Luckily, things calmed down by Sunday night. It does seem though that every year when I return there is more traffic on our little calle. It figures as more Gringos move in, and the children of the local (often large) families are now grown up and driving.

Here We Go..........

Sunday, Oct. 25: Feeling very accomplished after having moved out of the trailer, packing for China,  NC, FL, and CR for the next 7 months, Ray, Scruffy and I took a relaxing walk to the beach...... The sky was clearing from an earlier rain shower, the water's surface was glassy and the air warm. Anticipating some down time before boarding the plane for China in two days I felt very mellow.

The peace was shattered by a panicked phone call from Kathy who informed me that we had confused our departure date, that we were leaving the next day, and several hours earlier than I had thought, bringing us right up to dealing with early morning rush hour traffic, to boot. Furthermore, as I'm writing this early Monday morning I realize that it's our wedding anniversary! And neither Ray nor I (until this moment) remembered. (And I've been thinking I had it all together ....HA!)