Sunday, May 10, 2020

view looking up to the container
April 24 - May 9
Big Day Out
It’s been two months now and we’re still pretty much living with the same restrictions. Luckily for us, it’s a little more relaxed where we are, in part because it’s quite rural, and  so far, there are no recorded cases in our neck of the woods.  (just changed May 2) Although I realize that could change any day. We’re doing our part. I got into the car or the first time in over a week when we did a Golfito run the other day, armed with masks and spray alcohol.

It was actually quite a treat to go grocery shopping!  How’s that for being a little desperate to get out?
the garden path

Keeping Everyone Fed
On our way to Golfito we followed a school bus that stopped at every home and driveway, where people were collecting their government food package. Apparently, every family gets a big package of rice, beans, cooking oil, and fresh vegetables and maybe more (I’m not sure) every two weeks. In rural areas it is delivered, otherwise it is distributed through the local schools. I think it is very smart of the CR government to make sure everyone has some basic food staples. People can be driven to some extreme behaviour without food for themselves and their families pretty rapidly. In addition, phone and utility bills are wavered for now. This seems to contrast with the news I’ve read that there are many people in the US who are now going hungry (despite reports of farmers jettisoning their crops due to lack of marketability).
misc rocks and shells for "play"

Some Down Days
Last week I had a bout with an upset stomach, which married me to the toilet for two days. Thinking I had recovered, we were on our way to Golfito when it became clear that the “bug” had not yet left my system. Had to do a few “pit stops” along the way. The remarkable thing to me is that I usually tolerate the heat very well for the most part. But if I’m sick, I can’t stand it. It’s an effort to do anything. And, I can get pretty grouchy, too. 

baby red butts


Avian Entertainment
Our garden is still hosting at least several “red butt” nests. Particularly in the stillness of early morning, I can see tiny movements in the bushes where the dutiful parents come and go feeding their pairs of ever hungry chicks. Both nests I can spot easily have plump little grey chicks with spiky pin feathers starting to emerge on their wings, and a little peach fuzz on their heads. When a parent appears there is a lot of tiny cheeps as they guzzle down bits of regurgitated banana and papaya their parents brought from our feeder.  As Ray said, “It’s like a drive in restaurant,” only fly in. I watched a diligent mama clean out the nest of their offspring’s droppings for a half hour this morning. The papa merely comes and goes with dinner - no housecleaning for him!

Gill's red rock collection

Drunken Chickens
Recently a pair of rails (chicken-like birds)  have taken up residency nearby. They like the edges of rivers and accompanying woodlands, so we apparently have the right habitat. They come through early in the morning, making a huge racket sounding like drunken chickens. The amazing thing is they forage in the yard and driveway walking right past the dogs, who don’t even bat an eyelid. These are the same dogs who will spend hours trying to ferret out a lizard hiding under a log! Go figure.

new(ish) rock garden


Other Wildlife
The macaw trio has moved onto better feeding grounds now after feeding in the same group of trees nearby for over a month. I still see them flying by quite often. But we still have flocks of noisy parakeets swarming the treetops, and the early morning parrots in the tree behind the container squawking loudly. Our resident family of howler monkeys show up for a few days every couple of weeks, camping out in the treetops almost above. I get a kick out of the babies who continually make little snuffly, grunting noises. But I could do without the roaring howls of the big adult male about an hour before daybreak. Last year counted 8 consistently, but this year there are at least 12. Right now they’re almost above me feeding on flowers and new leaves from a neighboring tree. It’s so fascinating. 

one of Ray's many rocks


Sneaky Perros (Dogs)
Because the “girls” are outdoor dogs, they have their comfy beds in the walkway where they are supposed to sleep. However, every night well after we go to bed, Boquetta slithers between the bars of the gate supposed to keep them off the deck, and if we happen to peek out in the middle of the night, there she is luxuriously stretched out on the couch. By the time we stir in the morning she is gone, back to the driftwood bench on the patio. One morning I got up before dawn and caught her. She was so happy to see me that she forgot to sneak away, instead turning into a hapless mush exposing her tummy, with tail wagging furiously. Interestingly, the other two, Mama and Zsa Zsa, have never even attempted this, although they could fit through the gate if they wanted. 

Boquette covered in "cling ons"


Neighborhood Doggie News
We still host “Whiskers,” who lives next door from time to time both at the casa and on our beach walks. Unfortunately, one our other neighborhood dogs has not fared well at all. Lassie, who was almost a permanent fixture at our place for a while, and had a litter of puppies here last year, died under the container last week. I kept smelling something really foul, and that evening when I went to investigate I found her. Her owners, Denis and Raquel came and retrieved her body and buried her on the beach (or maybe the vultures got her the next morning because I saw a huge flock feasting on something??). She had been looking and smelling bad for a few weeks, so I guess she’s out of her misery. I feel quite sad about her death because she was part of our “extended dog” family. Their owners, our neighbors, don’t believe in taking them to the vet, which is somewhat a cultural thing with some rural Ticos who obviously don’t have the same view of dogs that I do. Meanwhile, there are still plenty of other dogs in the “hood,” who spend every evening barking back and forth with the girls, especially Boquetta, who is quite a yapper. Another noise we could do without… 

The huge “nursery” pit that Lassie excavated under our container has now collapsed, along with part of the cement walkway alongside our container. So, one more project…..

cleaned up lumber under the container

Cling Ons
Scruffy dogs, like Boquette here, and the “Scruffmeister" in the US, both have longish fur with a very soft undercoat that tangles and mattes up easily - perfect for attracting “cling-ons” (the seeds and burrs from grasses and other plants). Yesterday, Boquette returned from a “doggie adventure” covered with large, flat grass seeds. She must have rolled in them because her fur was so matted it took me over two hours to tease and pull them out. Especially difficult were the ones around her face. She was extremely patient as I cut and pulled them out. But now instead of looking shaggy, she is quite groomed, although somewhat unevenly. 

Pest Control
Knock on wood - I seem to have eliminated the ants, termites and most of the wasps for now. I even de-wormed and de-flead the girls today. Ray has a personal grudge against roaches, so he actually put out a few sticky pads to snare his nemesis. Since our bat population has increased to two large and one tiny bat, I made a screen to cover up our vent windows in the upper container so they can’t get in and sleep there anymore. There are lots of horror stories here when a few bats turn into a colony, and it becomes a messy affair to get rid of them, and their droppings. After all, there are plenty of accommodating trees for them. 

well seasoned coffee and rice pots

kitchen scene

But, now we have a ratton (mouse) that ate through several foil containers of fried beans, tomato paste and mayonaisse, leaving a trail of droppings, of course. So, that meant cleaning all the food shelves and putting anything accessible into plastic tubs with lids. The shelves need cleaning anyway, and we found some very outdated cans to be used up immediately - so it’s all good! PS: Bought some poison, put it down, it appears the pellet was eaten because it was scattered everywhere, BUT still little turds. Working on Plan B……..


Stove rehab with primer
the final coat


Studies With Gill
My little pal, Briana, comes by quite often to not only monkey climb everywhere, but also to “estudiar.” (study) I’ve got a little collection of coloring books, letter and number workbook and some flash cards for letters and numbers. It’s kind of fun for me, too. I’ve even made up some little cards for learning games that I use with Maleska and Briana. Just like being back at Quogue School!  Maleska’s mom, Raquel, is now home schooling not only Maleska in kindergarten, but her two other daughters, in jr. high and high school. Paula, the oldest, is taking French and English! Keeping the girls going has turned into a full time job for her. So this is a world wide challenge for parents with the schools shut down. 
Studies with Gill
evolved into taking selfies with Gill
















I hosted the two girls together the other day. They both arrived with a parents’ cell phone. I put the phones away while they practiced writing ABC’s, but not before checking out some pretty good learning apps for kids. Studies lasted half an hour, they took a few selfies with me, then wanted to listen to music.  The next thing I knew, they were gyrating and pumping in a very provocative manner to a recent Latino hit. Good dancers!
And then it was time to dance....

Gardening News
We’re now getting regular rain showers, and the occasional 5 inches per hour downpour. I’ve been doing a lot of gardening: planting; preparing a vegetable plot; and lots of raking leaves.  I cleaned out the pineapple area and planted 15 more, transplanted some “house” plants, and recently sprouted some vegetable and flower seeds. I know it’s best to leave the leaf litter down, but it can encourage mosquitoes and gnats to breed in wet leaves, and it’s less places for snakes to be able to hide in. So it’s like fall in NY - raking leaves, then burning them. I’m not terribly paranoid, but we can’t rule out Lassie’s death from a snake bite, and recently, a neighbor was bitten by a “bad” snake. 
ornamental bananas 

covered with bees with
little white pollen "bags"
on their legs

My Garden
Finally, after saying it for years, I will have a modest garden. I roped Eli into breaking up the soil near our huge lemon tree in the back. Ray started digging post holes for the fence, and hurt his back, so we hired a neighbor to finish. It will have a fence of…. you guessed it - old metal roof panels. I figure in a couple of weeks when the seedling are further along, I’ll plant them: bok choy, culantro, and arulgula. 

We are inundated with sweet scents from our limon trees in full bloom and several other enormous trees in the quebrada (creek) next to us. The citrus trees have a jasmine like, very heavy, but almost intoxicating perfume, while the others are sweeter and somewhat cloying. A nice perk for being here.

limon flowers

Guanabanas Everywhere!
My guanoabana tree has a few more offerings, that are supplemented by a neighbor showing up regularly with another one of these monsters. Like many others here, these strange fruit are sweet, but with a somewhat acidic taste. For me they are “delicioso.” Creamy and sweet inside, each “lobe” has a large (watermelon sized) seed. I began squeezing them to make a creamy thick juice because we simply can’t eat that much. The juice is a little tart, so I’ve been mixing some melocoton (peach) juice, then pouring the mixture into small plastic bags and freezing them. Love that freezer! It makes a nice frozen refreshing treat.

PS: Between a large corvina (fish) we bought form our fisherman neighbor, that has been transformed into ceviche and five frozen fillets, and the plethora of fruit we can’t possibly eat right now, our freezer is filling up quickly!

the pineapple plot


Keeping a Routine
Although I feel a bit cut off from the World at times, I’ve read lots of tid bits about surviving staying at home during the pandemic. I have to say, that keeping a routine, savoring the little stuff, and gearing down is very helpful. If I don’t walk every day and/or do yoga, as well as completing a few projects, I can start feeling a little antsy. I usually have binoculars and camera ready with me on the deck. There’s always cleaning, cooking and a few repairs. Luckily, I’m pretty good at keeping myself occupied, but I can see it’s a little more difficult for Ray. He sometimes needs a push - and/or shove, to get going. And he absolutely needs to get out and take a drive around the neighborhood every day. We usually come up with one or two things he “needs” to pickup at the nearby “super”(market). Really, for the most part, our lifestyle has not changed dramatically.

I can’t help but wonder what lies ahead for all of us, though. I recently cancelled my flights to Canada for a planned trip through Newfoundland in June. (Actually, Air Canada cancelled their own flights.) I’m not sure how long the shutdowns will continue here, and I’m not sure when I will be able to return to NY at this point. There is now 1 confirmed case of the virus in Golfito, so everyone in this area is feeling a little less safe now. Although I have some very strong pangs of missing everyone back in the US, along with my continual frustration of lousy wifi communication, I am enjoying my life here, too. First World problems!!
one of Ray/s many "face" rocks
Could be a face... or???

Speaking of Routines…
The ideal day: morning coffee, walk, swim, yoga, read, projects, afternoon wrap up, swim, cocktails, music, dinner, news and reading before bed. A day of Golfito and shopping at the border leaves us exhausted for that day and the following. Big projects take on a life of their own and become a major distraction. The tiny bit of socializing, or even plain laziness also interfere, so my ideal day is something that sometimes happens, and something to strive for.

Project Updates
love my new/old freezer!

  • Our oven (made in China from cheap crappy steel) is rusting out, with paint peeling off in sheets. So I scraped and sanded the rust away, “rust reformed” it, primed and repainted it. Actually looks pretty decent.
  • Floor: the metal plate has been bubbling rust and the paint is looking shabby, so I again, “rust reformed” it. We decided on my favorite color, a sky blue with a hint of aqua. I figured to do it in stages, so the first painting was a square near the refrigerator (still with access) and a swath near the bed, with a small walkway. Unfortunately, Ray was bitten by a spider on his foot that morning, so not only was he unable to walk well, and in pain,  but he ran a fever, which meant he stayed in bed all day. Every time he needed to get up he had to step carefully between the painted areas. Not easy for a bigfoot like him!Consequently, we have a few blue footprints. Luckily, he’s on the mend, and we have learned that there are about a dozen species of recluse spiders living alive and well in CR.
my new garden bench

  • Bathroom walls are now sponge painted shades of yellow, orange and tan.
  • Bodega: tools, paints, etc are pretty organized.
  • Lumber under the deck is organized and stacked
  • Panel separating the “bedroom” from the “kitchen” newly painted
  • Still working on rusty spots on the outside of the container - scraping, wire brushing, sanding, “rust reforming,” anti corrosion pain, then a final paint sometime in the future when we decide what we want. 
  • new garden bench seat is complete (weighing a ton - some heavy duty “everything resistant” dense wood
  • Garden -  plantings, raking, garden plot, etc.
  • (It actually feels good to see this all together in an “accomplished” list.)

Other News

Food News
Avocado season is here. We’re eating them for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Can we really get tired of guacamol?  Pretty soon we’ll be into mango season. More smoothies, desserts and freezing projects! Lots of papayas almost ready. And, we seem to go “bananas” every few weeks.!

our own papayas

Ray
There have been no large waves for several weeks now. Good for Ray, because he wouldn’t have been able to surf anyway. First he cut his foot and it festered for a few days, then he over exerted himself resulting in a sore neck and shoulder, which seemed to travel into his back and hip. Now he’s recuperating from a spider bite. So it’s been a rough few weeks. Of course, as his friend, Dr. Mike would say, “Don’t do stupid super human things.” And, there’s the “Polish” factor, along with forgetting that he’s 67, and he’s not twenty anymore! He HAS read a ton of books, still the “Kitchen Nazi,” but pretty toned down, and when it’s working, he’s done a lot of the other surfing - on the Internet.
the driftwood bench - good for sitting,
dog sleeping, and dropping off
beach finds

Gill
Every day for me seems to be full. For example, the other day, I had just finished morning coffee, a little cleaning and reading yesterday’s news, when I got a message from Raquel that Denis had fish. After cleaning and filleting it, I made ceviche, froze the rest, cleaned up, and voila! it was lunch time. The girls came over for “escuela,” followed by a beach walk and a swim. We snuck in a relaxing cocktail and sunset watch (our daily winding down routine) And then it was time to prepare la cena (dinner). By the time we cleaned up, watched the news (in Espanol) it was time for bed. Each day seems to fill up. Incredible!

So my friends, stay healthy and grateful...

Saturday, April 18, 2020


Part 2 of April 8 (sorry it's backwards)

Tres Chicas

Learning Some Basics of Life
I really enjoyed watching how these three girls had to work out sharing (all essentially only children, but with sporadic half siblings). Not easy, and there were plenty of adult interventions. Also, my two little neighbors are barefoot, hardy, very active little girls. essentially living outdoors and at the beach. They start the day off clean with combed hair, but quickly get dirty, with wild hair flying. In contrast, Keiren, Josue’s daughter, is regularly combed, showered, with clean clothes. You can imagine it was quite a stretch for Keiren to keep up physically with the other two, but she was a trooper. Climbing tree stumps, making sand castillos (castles) paddling in the sea and writing in the sand. These little girls were on the go the entire day. Me too! 
PS: It was great to have the company, but we were quite happy to be alone again.



Ready for some killin'


Briana made some nests for any interested bird...


Insect Triumphs!
Termites: Between the efforts of Eli, who helped me get the huge termite nest down, and my diligence, I think I’ve gotten the termite infestations under control, using a lot of poisonous stuff, unfortunately. The lesson here is stay vigilant, which we didn’t do before. 

Wasps: The other night I donned my winter coat and hat, jeans and boots, (in case they attacked) and went into a full war spraying the multitude of wasp nests hanging under various roofs. I had been tolerant of them until they started showing up at my bird feeder and driving the birds away. Mission accomplished!

My nemasis


Roaches: I accidentally discovered a roach motel/nursery while cleaning under the sink. Under a rotted out piece of wood that I lifted up I found a swarm of cockroaches, as well as a lot of their egg cases. Sprayed the crap out of them! Then yesterday, I went to make a smoothie, lifted the bottom of the blender, which rattled, looked inside and found a couple of live ones and some egg cases. Got out the spray and shook them out. Cockroaches really will rule the world long after humans are gone!!

On a somewhat good note: The leaf cutter ant nest has been eliminated (for now), but mysteriously some of my plants are still missing their leaves. While pruning the other day I came face to face with a young, plump, brilliant green iguana munching away on bouganvilla shoots! Oh well, they have to eat, too.

All life lessons on living outdoors in the jungle! Hah!

April 17

The Good Life
I spent most of yesterday taking cuttings, some that I had rooted previously, and planting them. I also set up the beginnings of a little shade garden that you look down onto from the deck. I had my little helper, Briana with me, chattering constantly, “planting” alongside me. I noticed her parents came in very late last night, so they were still asleep when Briana joined me for (some in her case) yoga this morning at 7 am. I asked her if Mama knew she was here and she said yes. Not! I think we have to call her on this one. She’s a good kid, and loves being with us partly out of fascination with foreigners, and we have interesting stuff (rocks, feathers, plants, three friendly dogs, good treats, different food…….). But it’s a good opportunity to talk about the importance of being truthful. The teacher in me keep slipping out. 

I’m pleased with all the little, and not so little, home and yard projects I’ve completed. I had a bit of a checklist with about 20 items (which changed priority and interest frequently) that I’m about half though, but somehow the list keeps growing 

Tamales


Supporting the Local Economy
We frequently buy products from the locals, which include hailing down local farmers that sell produce out of their trucks, and a series of folks who come by selling various items. Eduardo/Petrone comes by weekly and provides us with bananas, plantains, yuca, tiskiki (another starchy root), coconuts and whatever else is in season. We recently visited his farm to pick up huge hands of bananas and plantains, as well as yuca, avocados, tiskiki and oranges, some of which we gave away. Once in a while other neighbors come by selling tamales, baked sugary things (which Ray loves), freshly slaughtered chickens and pork, crawfish, coconuts, fruit, vegetables, and even rocks!  Beto, a local neighbor, purchases chocolate from the Indians nearby and makes cigar shaped rolls with nuts, ginger and other treats imbedded in them. 

Fresh from the farm

And there’s, the ceviche lady. Rosa, and her husband, Benancia, ((brother of Lalo across the street) recently moved out of their beach shack into a new home they built. There are rooms to rent upstairs, their living area downstairs doubles as a very small restaurant, and she has a spacious new kitchen with a big chest freezer. Rosa makes the best ceviche I’ve ever had, and sells it to neighbors either as take out, or they can sit at the counter for three people or in the two rocking chairs and eat there. Her husband is a fisherman, so fresh fish is readily available so it’s quite a sweet little cottage industry. Their new house on the main road is at the bottom of the hill where there is a planned group of cabinas to be built, so I think they will be providing food and even lodging for some of the workers and eventual cabina inhabitants. 

Poop Time for Sloths
We have a rather unusual, sometimes pesky, neighbor, Manuel, who brings us plants, rocks and other interesting, offbeat things, for small change and a little food. Yesterday he brought us a SLOTH! live! He was bringing Ray some unusual rocks (something he does regularly), but also was carrying a three toed sloth by the scruff of its neck that he found on the road. At first I thought it was dead, but when he put the little fellow down it started to climb on the driftwood bench. Very slowly and deliberately. 

Not every day someone brings you a sloth



Such gentle faces


They are very docile, although you need to be careful of their huge claws. He was quite green around the shoulders, which is actually an algae growing in their fur which helps camouflage them in the trees whose branches are also often covered in algae. Sloths only come down out of the trees to defocate about once a week, so it must have been his time.  Very cool. We took his photo, the bright him to the base of a nearby tree that he slowly clawed his way up into the treetop. Quite an experience. Understandably, sloths become the victims of car strikes quite often because their “slothfulness” makes them very vulnerable. 

Masked Men with Gloves
A couple of days ago we went on a shopping spree to get groceries at the border. Usually, it’s a bustling town full of street vendors and many tiny shops, as well as several large department stores that have big grocery departments, and of course, immigration buildings for CR and Panama. The border is closed except for the tractor trailers waiting to cross. But most striking - there were no people on the streets or in the few remaining open stores carrying food. Even the department stores would only allow you to go into the food areas, everything else (clothing, shoes, cosmetics, housewares, etc.) were taped off. Furthermore, only men OR women are allowed in on alternating days. So, being men’s day, Many people were wearing gloves, too, and hands were sprayed with alcohol going in and out.  Ray went in donning his mask, with the grocery list. Technically these stores are in Panama, which has a much higher rate of infection and deaths than CR, so it was wise to be careful.

Ready to go shopping

Meanwhile, the infection rate for CR has dropped down to just a few new people a day (5-6), and I believe still only 3 deaths. But it’s pretty restrictive here with driving curfews between 7pm and 5am, you’re only allowed to drive on certain days depending on the last numbers of your license plate, and only one family member in a store at a time. We encountered 5 checkpoints along the way - one where the police wanted to see ID as well. Of course, I misunderstood the news about the plates one night from the TV news and got the message backwards - thinking the allowable days, were the restricted ones! Duh!

The whole thing seems pretty surreal, even here, so I can imagine how people must feel living  in a busy metropolitan area, where they are used to being surrounded by people all the time. It is heartbreaking to think of how many people are either crammed into tight quarters, and conversely those living alone. 

Life Goes On
For me, nature is the grounding plate. My little red butt birds wake me up every day at the feeder. The hummingbirds zoom through the garden, sometimes aggressively chasing each other.  Noisy flocks of  parakeets and parrots chatter incessantly in the treetops, and my usual “family” of three scarlet macaws arrives nearby every day to feast on the beach almonds. The sound of the waves is a constant, and the tides keep their rising and falling schedule. Just in a two week period, we’re now regularly getting rain - some heavy downpours even. Everything is green and sprouting new growth. The beach changes daily, as the river mouths swell with the rain, so one day they are overflowing, and the next day they are drained as they burst and the water rushes into the ocean creating little sand ravines along the shore. Huge driftwood logs that were stuck upstream, break free and lodge themselves in the sand. I’ve watched one beautiful silvery log make its way for a mile and a half along the shoreline. 


Leaping Lizards!
I don’t know why we seem to have a large lizard population all of a sudden. Could it be ‘the girls” have lightened up on their lizard hunting? We always have a couple of large iguanas, “iggys,” lounging around on nearby tree branches, or scurrying up the trunks. But there are a lot of tiny skinny non descript brown guys hanging out the deck and the patio, and some spectacular looking ones in the garden. I flush two very brightly colored ones, with gold spots when I’m gardening, but they don’t want their photo taken. Another partly copper colored one lives on the patio. 

And a large JC lizard scurries around on our roof in the early morning licking up the dew that forms overnight. He has some smaller relatives that I see in the trees and among the leaf litter from time to time. Sometimes there will be a loud thunk and an iggy or JC will jump/or fall onto the roof from the trees, before leaping back into the safety of the branches. And then we have geckos that scurry along the ceiling and the walls. At let one every night hangs out on the tv screen where the bugs accumulate. It’s quite funny to see newscasters with geckos on their shoulders! Pretty cool!



Just to show off - my first guanabana from our tree!!
It's a whopper!


Please stay healthy and well during these difficult times!!  love Gill