Reaching New Heights: Part 1

Beginning the hike

One of my most physical challenges of late was hiking to the near peak of Chirripo, Costa Rica’s highest mountain in early December. One of my partners in this endeavor, Kim, and I spent weeks regularly hiking the steep hillsides of our neighborhood, in preparation for “the BIG one!”

A pretty soggy walk

Test of Our Mettle

Full of enthusiasm and energy we met up with Hattie and our guide, Ken, the afternoon before the climb. After a hearty dinner and chilly overnight in a small cabin, we set out at daybreak for the day’s hike. Luckily, we had the forethought to send our larger packs with a porter who left them at the base lodge for us. Overcast in the beginning, we encountered a steady rain after a couple of hours, that intensified as we gained altitude. Much of the trail was a steady incline, with some steep and overgrown parts. Several meadows offered some relief for our aching thighs, although they were flooded from previous rains. Visibility was limited to a few yards around us as the raindrops pelted down. Our gear provided some protection, but our feet, lower legs, arms and hands went from just wet to numb rapidly. 

The one and only shelter

With only one small shelter early on in the hike, there was no respite from the weather. CR’s strict policies to protect the environment, not only limit the number of visitors, but not allowing any new structures, ie. shelters or even a bench! So on we trudged. By late morning we had reached halfway at 7 km. My enthusiasm started to wane as my legs began to feel heavy. I put myself into auto mode, monotonously humming little tunes, and feeling victorious for every km signpost we passed. Ken’s information about the area and his encouragement helped to spur us on. There was no stopping because of no shelter, and the dampness immediately chilled me to the edge of hypothermia. The last couple of kilometers really put me to the test - the cold, fatigue and the altitude nearly kicked my ass. I went into full determination mode for the 14th and last kilometer. When I felt I could barely go on, I glimpsed the base lodge nestled into the mountainside ahead. With a burst of adrenalin I pushed my way through the fog and raindrops, almost panting to reach the end. It had taken us over 8 hours for the 14 1/2 km!

We made it!

Yeah!!

A Welcome Meal

Expecting our arrival the kitchen crew had saved a hearty lunch for us, which we devoured. Still chilled with numb feet and hands, we went off to the bunk room, stripped off our wet clothes and shoes, and climbed into bed under several blankets to rest and warm up.  We managed to keep a pretty good sense of humor about our soggy clothing, plastic garbage bag rain and foot gear, as well as the rather basic accommodations. I couldn’t understand why the two flights of stairs to our room exhausted me until I realized my body was dealing with over 10k feet altitude, while it’s used to sea level. Unfortunately, I barely felt sense of accomplishment completing the day’s hike because I was SO cold.

What do you do with wet sneakers?

This guy is trying to get some solar heat

The temperature outside was in the 40’s and continuously raining. Inside the stone and metal lodge wasn’t much warmer with no heat, or hot water. The only warmth was from our food and drink. We spent the rest of that first day, and night in bed wearing all our clothes (including 3 layers under winter jacket and hat) under the covers. Apparently, years before, wildfires had engulfed the area, resulting in very strict rules about any outdoor fires or even inside fireplaces. The lodge was powered only by solar panels, so no heat, and after 8pm - no lights. It was quite spartan - and downright frigid.