Turpan; Sat., Sept. 7

Sat., Sept. 7:

Imin Minaret, a Uyghur style mosque

 First we visited the Imin Minaret in Turpan. This is reputed to be one of the finest examples of Uyghur architecture and seems to be highly revered landmark. Personally, I find the simplicity of mosques interesting because they are very bare inside.  While we were on the way out we came across a musical/dance performance featuring, of all people, the musicians from the previous evening. We stayed to watch the flamboyant dancing and lively dancing. Watching the audience was as interesting as the performers. 

Uyghur children wait for their turn to perform

Traditional dancing and music in the square

Our favorite "boys"

The enthusiastic audience......

The Flaming Mountains: 
Next we headed out to the Flaming Mountains about 40 miles west of Turpan. After the stretch of industrial buildings, cement factories and power plants we entered the desert before starting to climb up into the hills. As we continued the mountains became beautifully striated rock of browns, reds and oranges. These barren mountains, sculpted into steep canyons and rugged peaks, were very picturesque.

The Flaming Mountains' oranges, yellows and browns create great scenery

An ancient campsite, this caravansera is located near the Grottoes

An "unexcavated" cave

The mountains' rock formations and beautiful rusty colors

Ancient Campsite:
Along the road to the grottoes, nestled down at the base of a mountain, next to the river are the remains of an old caravansera, Basically, a stopping place for a day or two for travelers along the Silk Road, the caravansera consisted of mostly crumbling walls, and the sides and doorways of several buildings. Closed off to the public, this is being excavated and examined by archaeologists, so we viewed it from a considerable distance.

The Grottoes (upper right) overlook the River

Buddhist artwork on the cave walls

The Bezklik Grottoes:
Perched along the steep banks of the Mutougou River are a series of man-made caves that were important stopping points along the Silk Road. The caves, or grottoes, were carved  into the rock walls as small temples or places to give thanks and get blessings for safe travel by travelers on the Silk Road back as far as about 1,500 years ago. Artisans would be commissioned to create sometimes elaborate carvings, statues of Buddha and religious frescoes. Nearby were dwellings for the monks. Much of what is know about the history of the people using the Silk Road, as well as its inhabitants, come from these ancient sites. The statues, wall paintings and ancient documents and other artifacts found at the grottoes, and ruins such as Jiaohe show that religions, languages, and many ideas traveled along these routes, as well as foods, goods and customs.

One of many wall paintings

The Grottoes sit along the top of a cliff above the Mutougu River

A True Oasis:
The actual physical site itself is very dramatic and inspirational.The lush green valley surrounded by the steep canyon walls of such vivid colors is certainly awesome. Only some of the caves are open because there is a lot of archaeological work still being done. Unfortunately, in the early 1900's European explorers had removed sections of the frescoes and some statues. Earlier, about 600 years ago, when the Muslims came through they defaced, literally, almost every painting because their religion does not tolerate images of people. Still, knowing a little of the history of the caves, and seeing the paintings in person was an incredible experience. The history of this region and the mixture of cultures that existed hundreds, even thousands of years ago is so fascinating. Furthermore, seeing the harsh desert and mountain environment that people who used the Silk Road routes endured gave me a sense of how hardy and determined these people were.

Trying out a traditional instrument

The Ancient Karez Wells:
Later, we visited the Karez Museum, which  demonstrates the construction and actually still functioning underground irrigation system that has been, and is still used in the Central Asian and Mid Eastern deserts for over two thousand years. Probably developed in this region first, a series of wells were hand dug usually about 30 feet deep and about 80 to 90 feet apart. First, two wells were dug to the underground water table, then a tunnel was dug connecting the two. Then another another section would be added. These tunnels and wells continued to be dug away from the mountains, the source of the water. There is a gradual slope to the tunnel so water would flow away from the source, but no too swiftly to avoid erosion of the tunnel. A particular tunnel could be miles long, irrigating crops and providing water for towns and villages far away.

Oasis Towns:
This system worked well in the desert because melting glacial water begins soaking into the ground at some point, but still exists in the underwater aquifer.  The area around Turpan lies in an extremely dry desert, near the foothills of the Tian Shan Mountains. Being an oasis town, there is rich farmland surrounding the city growing grapes, melons, peaches, cotton, many vegetables and grains.

Our Guide shows the lines of Karez wells that carry water underground from mountains to oasis regions

A model showing how the Karez wells are maintained

Washing in the Karez water

Karez water still runs through local neighborhoods

 The “Big Dig,” Asian-Style:
A family would dig and own the wells, so they would collect money in exchange for water from their neighbors. Often the water would flow right to people's homes, which we saw along the side of the road as we came into town.  Karez waters still flow along the edge of streets In the older sections of town, particularly in the farming areas. Just outside the city are vast flat arid lands dotted with regularly spaced rows of circular mounds in long rows. In the center of each mound is a well hole that is used to maintain the water tunnels. Not an occupation I would chose!

Children play/or bathe in an irrigation ditch

Speaking of Water....
Many people warned me about drinking the water in China (akin to the water in Mexico). I noticed that everyone, including the natives, drinks hot water plain, hot tea or bottled beverages. So, of course we followed suite. A worthy Government goal might be to improve public drinking water?.......