August 24, 2020 Updates from Costa Rica

 

Life is beginning to get back to normal. After three weeks, Ray is walking independently for short distances, doing his PT exercises, and he’s back in the kitchen. All good signs. He still needs to go back to the hospital every few days to get his incisions cleaned and bandaged. They are looking pretty healthy, but there are still a few open spots. We try to get out for a drive and a walk every day, for a change in scenery from our little casita. Three weeks ago, Ray was diapered and hadn’t been out of bed in ten weeks. When he came home he could barely hobble to the bathroom, and his big outing was an electric cart ride around Walmart. He then graduated last week to walking around supermarkets using just the cart for a bit of support. 

I hate to give Walmart many accolades, but it provided a large, smooth floor to walk around, a parking garage under the store, (important to stay dry during this rainy season), and…. it has a huge food section. Right up Big Ray’s alley. And now, he’s mastered a few city blocks at a time, and even a short hike in the woods, with just a walking stick. Although he gets a little impatient at his progress at times, I just remind him of where he’s been. It keep everything in perspective.

Another big event in our lives is hospital and doctor visits. Ray also has those little daily pill boxes with compartments for each day’s medication. Who thought it would come to this?  No wonder his main doctors at both hospitals were gerentologists! 

We have been watching a lot of tv since it’s available, and lots of online time. We just finished watching the Democratic National Convention, and we’re onto the Republican one, now. Blah, blah, blah. Let’s hope the turnout will be productive for the American people. (Although it’s quite nice to be ensconced in CR right now!)

Meanwhile, I’ve been walking the neighborhood early most days. It’s quite a workout because we’re in a mountainous area and the roads are very steep. But I’m feeling pretty fit. I met a new friend, who I sometimes walk with, which is a nice little perk for me. The town we’re staying in is aptly named “Quebradas,” which means streams or small rivers. The many quebradas rush down the mountain to provide a main water supply for the city of San Isidro. The lush landscape punctuated by the many rushing streams reminds me of the area of North Carolina where I often visit my sister and Dad. It’s a very scenic area, with many beautiful homes, both Gringo and Tico. 

Most little dead end roads I’ve explored end up at coffee farms perched on the side of steep mountainsides. Very scenic. This area is quite affluent with many modern style homes, and a few “estates,” complete with beautiful grounds. Since many are quite new I’m guessing there has been quite a housing boon here in the past 20 years - as in most of CR. Lots of retired “Gringos,” but there are plenty of well off Ticos in this region, also. 

We took our first day trip last weekend down through several mountain ranges to the coast. The small surfing town of Dominical, usually bustling, was like a ghost town due to the Covid restrictions on travel and tourism. Kind of spooky. I’m hoping that we can do more exploring now that Ray is feeling stronger, because this is a jumping off point for some beautiful mountainous areas within an hour or two drive. 

Meanwhile, back in Pavones it sounds as if all is well. We speak to Eli every few days, who sounds like he’s keeping everything together for us. We are very lucky to have him able to stay at the container and take good care of “the Girls.” (dogs) They have had as much rain as we have here in the mountains, so their roads are worse than ever. I don’t miss the mud and the enormous ruts at all. Although it’s been nice to have TV and Internet here in SI, it will also be good to get back home. I’m getting a little bored without having any projects to tackle. TV sucks me in and numbs my brain.That’s my excuse for not getting much else done. I recently bought a drawing pad, but haven’t even open it yet. But I have been making some killer meals! So it’s all good.

A foodie note: There are some awesome fruit and veggie markets here, that we frequent almost daily. Right now avocados, mamone’s (leechee fruit) and several other unidentified (to me) fruits are in season, as well as the usual string beans, spinach, cauliflower (!), brocolli, pineapple, papayas, and other fruits and veggies. Everything is grown nearby, which adds to the freshness. There’s also a wonderful meat market, which Ray delights in visiting. Coupled with Ray’s enormous appetite (he lost at least 15 pounds), and his former diagnosis of “malnutrition,” food and eating are a big focus of our lives. Even more so because of the Covid shut downs. We have so much to be thankful. 

We have become a little "citified" since we are staying close to the city of an Isidro. It's quite a perk to go into town for a little shopping, or stop in for lunch at a local restaurant, or just walk around looking at the shops. I've enclosed some photos from around own.

                There are feeding stations for stray dogs and cats around downtown

Below are a couple of shots of our rental casita. It has been very comfortable, but at this point it will be good to get home again. 

And my writing juices are beginning to flow again!

I hope this note finds you well and safe. Take good care.   

view looking up to the container

April 24 - May 9

Big Day Out

It’s been two months now and we’re still pretty much living with the same restrictions. Luckily for us, it’s a little more relaxed where we are, in part because it’s quite rural, and  so far, there are no recorded cases in our neck of the woods.  (just changed May 2) Although I realize that could change any day. We’re doing our part. I got into the car or the first time in over a week when we did a Golfito run the other day, armed with masks and spray alcohol.

It was actually quite a treat to go grocery shopping!  How’s that for being a little desperate to get out?

the garden path

Keeping Everyone Fed

On our way to Golfito we followed a school bus that stopped at every home and driveway, where people were collecting their government food package. Apparently, every family gets a big package of rice, beans, cooking oil, and fresh vegetables and maybe more (I’m not sure) every two weeks. In rural areas it is delivered, otherwise it is distributed through the local schools. I think it is very smart of the CR government to make sure everyone has some basic food staples. People can be driven to some extreme behaviour without food for themselves and their families pretty rapidly. In addition, phone and utility bills are wavered for now. This seems to contrast with the news I’ve read that there are many people in the US who are now going hungry (despite reports of farmers jettisoning their crops due to lack of marketability).

misc rocks and shells for "play"

Some Down Days

Last week I had a bout with an upset stomach, which married me to the toilet for two days. Thinking I had recovered, we were on our way to Golfito when it became clear that the “bug” had not yet left my system. Had to do a few “pit stops” along the way. The remarkable thing to me is that I usually tolerate the heat very well for the most part. But if I’m sick, I can’t stand it. It’s an effort to do anything. And, I can get pretty grouchy, too. 

baby red butts

Avian Entertainment

Our garden is still hosting at least several “red butt” nests. Particularly in the stillness of early morning, I can see tiny movements in the bushes where the dutiful parents come and go feeding their pairs of ever hungry chicks. Both nests I can spot easily have plump little grey chicks with spiky pin feathers starting to emerge on their wings, and a little peach fuzz on their heads. When a parent appears there is a lot of tiny cheeps as they guzzle down bits of regurgitated banana and papaya their parents brought from our feeder.  As Ray said, “It’s like a drive in restaurant,” only fly in. I watched a diligent mama clean out the nest of their offspring’s droppings for a half hour this morning. The papa merely comes and goes with dinner - no housecleaning for him!

Gill's red rock collection

Drunken Chickens

Recently a pair of rails (chicken-like birds)  have taken up residency nearby. They like the edges of rivers and accompanying woodlands, so we apparently have the right habitat. They come through early in the morning, making a huge racket sounding like drunken chickens. The amazing thing is they forage in the yard and driveway walking right past the dogs, who don’t even bat an eyelid. These are the same dogs who will spend hours trying to ferret out a lizard hiding under a log! Go figure.

new(ish) rock garden

Other Wildlife

The macaw trio has moved onto better feeding grounds now after feeding in the same group of trees nearby for over a month. I still see them flying by quite often. But we still have flocks of noisy parakeets swarming the treetops, and the early morning parrots in the tree behind the container squawking loudly. Our resident family of howler monkeys show up for a few days every couple of weeks, camping out in the treetops almost above. I get a kick out of the babies who continually make little snuffly, grunting noises. But I could do without the roaring howls of the big adult male about an hour before daybreak. Last year counted 8 consistently, but this year there are at least 12. Right now they’re almost above me feeding on flowers and new leaves from a neighboring tree. It’s so fascinating. 

one of Ray's many rocks

Sneaky Perros (Dogs)

Because the “girls” are outdoor dogs, they have their comfy beds in the walkway where they are supposed to sleep. However, every night well after we go to bed, Boquetta slithers between the bars of the gate supposed to keep them off the deck, and if we happen to peek out in the middle of the night, there she is luxuriously stretched out on the couch. By the time we stir in the morning she is gone, back to the driftwood bench on the patio. One morning I got up before dawn and caught her. She was so happy to see me that she forgot to sneak away, instead turning into a hapless mush exposing her tummy, with tail wagging furiously. Interestingly, the other two, Mama and Zsa Zsa, have never even attempted this, although they could fit through the gate if they wanted. 

Boquette covered in "cling ons"

Neighborhood Doggie News

We still host “Whiskers,” who lives next door from time to time both at the casa and on our beach walks. Unfortunately, one our other neighborhood dogs has not fared well at all. Lassie, who was almost a permanent fixture at our place for a while, and had a litter of puppies here last year, died under the container last week. I kept smelling something really foul, and that evening when I went to investigate I found her. Her owners, Denis and Raquel came and retrieved her body and buried her on the beach (or maybe the vultures got her the next morning because I saw a huge flock feasting on something??). She had been looking and smelling bad for a few weeks, so I guess she’s out of her misery. I feel quite sad about her death because she was part of our “extended dog” family. Their owners, our neighbors, don’t believe in taking them to the vet, which is somewhat a cultural thing with some rural Ticos who obviously don’t have the same view of dogs that I do. Meanwhile, there are still plenty of other dogs in the “hood,” who spend every evening barking back and forth with the girls, especially Boquetta, who is quite a yapper. Another noise we could do without… 

The huge “nursery” pit that Lassie excavated under our container has now collapsed, along with part of the cement walkway alongside our container. So, one more project…..

cleaned up lumber under the container

Cling Ons

Scruffy dogs, like Boquette here, and the “Scruffmeister" in the US, both have longish fur with a very soft undercoat that tangles and mattes up easily - perfect for attracting “cling-ons” (the seeds and burrs from grasses and other plants). Yesterday, Boquette returned from a “doggie adventure” covered with large, flat grass seeds. She must have rolled in them because her fur was so matted it took me over two hours to tease and pull them out. Especially difficult were the ones around her face. She was extremely patient as I cut and pulled them out. But now instead of looking shaggy, she is quite groomed, although somewhat unevenly. 

Pest Control

Knock on wood - I seem to have eliminated the ants, termites and most of the wasps for now. I even de-wormed and de-flead the girls today. Ray has a personal grudge against roaches, so he actually put out a few sticky pads to snare his nemesis. Since our bat population has increased to two large and one tiny bat, I made a screen to cover up our vent windows in the upper container so they can’t get in and sleep there anymore. There are lots of horror stories here when a few bats turn into a colony, and it becomes a messy affair to get rid of them, and their droppings. After all, there are plenty of accommodating trees for them. 

well seasoned coffee and rice pots

kitchen scene

But, now we have a ratton (mouse) that ate through several foil containers of fried beans, tomato paste and mayonaisse, leaving a trail of droppings, of course. So, that meant cleaning all the food shelves and putting anything accessible into plastic tubs with lids. The shelves need cleaning anyway, and we found some very outdated cans to be used up immediately - so it’s all good! PS: Bought some poison, put it down, it appears the pellet was eaten because it was scattered everywhere, BUT still little turds. Working on Plan B……..

Stove rehab with primer

the final coat

Studies With Gill

My little pal, Briana, comes by quite often to not only monkey climb everywhere, but also to “estudiar.” (study) I’ve got a little collection of coloring books, letter and number workbook and some flash cards for letters and numbers. It’s kind of fun for me, too. I’ve even made up some little cards for learning games that I use with Maleska and Briana. Just like being back at Quogue School!  Maleska’s mom, Raquel, is now home schooling not only Maleska in kindergarten, but her two other daughters, in jr. high and high school. Paula, the oldest, is taking French and English! Keeping the girls going has turned into a full time job for her. So this is a world wide challenge for parents with the schools shut down. 

Studies with Gill

evolved into taking selfies with Gill

I hosted the two girls together the other day. They both arrived with a parents’ cell phone. I put the phones away while they practiced writing ABC’s, but not before checking out some pretty good learning apps for kids. Studies lasted half an hour, they took a few selfies with me, then wanted to listen to music.  The next thing I knew, they were gyrating and pumping in a very provocative manner to a recent Latino hit. Good dancers!

And then it was time to dance....

Gardening News

We’re now getting regular rain showers, and the occasional 5 inches per hour downpour. I’ve been doing a lot of gardening: planting; preparing a vegetable plot; and lots of raking leaves.  I cleaned out the pineapple area and planted 15 more, transplanted some “house” plants, and recently sprouted some vegetable and flower seeds. I know it’s best to leave the leaf litter down, but it can encourage mosquitoes and gnats to breed in wet leaves, and it’s less places for snakes to be able to hide in. So it’s like fall in NY - raking leaves, then burning them. I’m not terribly paranoid, but we can’t rule out Lassie’s death from a snake bite, and recently, a neighbor was bitten by a “bad” snake. 

ornamental bananas 

covered with bees with
little white pollen "bags"
on their legs

My Garden

Finally, after saying it for years, I will have a modest garden. I roped Eli into breaking up the soil near our huge lemon tree in the back. Ray started digging post holes for the fence, and hurt his back, so we hired a neighbor to finish. It will have a fence of…. you guessed it - old metal roof panels. I figure in a couple of weeks when the seedling are further along, I’ll plant them: bok choy, culantro, and arulgula. 

We are inundated with sweet scents from our limon trees in full bloom and several other enormous trees in the quebrada (creek) next to us. The citrus trees have a jasmine like, very heavy, but almost intoxicating perfume, while the others are sweeter and somewhat cloying. A nice perk for being here.

limon flowers

Guanabanas Everywhere!

My guanoabana tree has a few more offerings, that are supplemented by a neighbor showing up regularly with another one of these monsters. Like many others here, these strange fruit are sweet, but with a somewhat acidic taste. For me they are “delicioso.” Creamy and sweet inside, each “lobe” has a large (watermelon sized) seed. I began squeezing them to make a creamy thick juice because we simply can’t eat that much. The juice is a little tart, so I’ve been mixing some melocoton (peach) juice, then pouring the mixture into small plastic bags and freezing them. Love that freezer! It makes a nice frozen refreshing treat.

PS: Between a large corvina (fish) we bought form our fisherman neighbor, that has been transformed into ceviche and five frozen fillets, and the plethora of fruit we can’t possibly eat right now, our freezer is filling up quickly!

the pineapple plot

Keeping a Routine

Although I feel a bit cut off from the World at times, I’ve read lots of tid bits about surviving staying at home during the pandemic. I have to say, that keeping a routine, savoring the little stuff, and gearing down is very helpful. If I don’t walk every day and/or do yoga, as well as completing a few projects, I can start feeling a little antsy. I usually have binoculars and camera ready with me on the deck. There’s always cleaning, cooking and a few repairs. Luckily, I’m pretty good at keeping myself occupied, but I can see it’s a little more difficult for Ray. He sometimes needs a push - and/or shove, to get going. And he absolutely needs to get out and take a drive around the neighborhood every day. We usually come up with one or two things he “needs” to pickup at the nearby “super”(market). Really, for the most part, our lifestyle has not changed dramatically.

I can’t help but wonder what lies ahead for all of us, though. I recently cancelled my flights to Canada for a planned trip through Newfoundland in June. (Actually, Air Canada cancelled their own flights.) I’m not sure how long the shutdowns will continue here, and I’m not sure when I will be able to return to NY at this point. There is now 1 confirmed case of the virus in Golfito, so everyone in this area is feeling a little less safe now. Although I have some very strong pangs of missing everyone back in the US, along with my continual frustration of lousy wifi communication, I am enjoying my life here, too. First World problems!!

one of Ray/s many "face" rocks

Could be a face... or???

Speaking of Routines…

The ideal day: morning coffee, walk, swim, yoga, read, projects, afternoon wrap up, swim, cocktails, music, dinner, news and reading before bed. A day of Golfito and shopping at the border leaves us exhausted for that day and the following. Big projects take on a life of their own and become a major distraction. The tiny bit of socializing, or even plain laziness also interfere, so my ideal day is something that sometimes happens, and something to strive for.

Project Updates

love my new/old freezer!

• Our oven (made in China from cheap crappy steel) is rusting out, with paint peeling off in sheets. So I scraped and sanded the rust away, “rust reformed” it, primed and repainted it. Actually looks pretty decent.
• Floor: the metal plate has been bubbling rust and the paint is looking shabby, so I again, “rust reformed” it. We decided on my favorite color, a sky blue with a hint of aqua. I figured to do it in stages, so the first painting was a square near the refrigerator (still with access) and a swath near the bed, with a small walkway. Unfortunately, Ray was bitten by a spider on his foot that morning, so not only was he unable to walk well, and in pain,  but he ran a fever, which meant he stayed in bed all day. Every time he needed to get up he had to step carefully between the painted areas. Not easy for a bigfoot like him!Consequently, we have a few blue footprints. Luckily, he’s on the mend, and we have learned that there are about a dozen species of recluse spiders living alive and well in CR.

my new garden bench

• Bathroom walls are now sponge painted shades of yellow, orange and tan.
• Bodega: tools, paints, etc are pretty organized.
• Lumber under the deck is organized and stacked
• Panel separating the “bedroom” from the “kitchen” newly painted
• Still working on rusty spots on the outside of the container - scraping, wire brushing, sanding, “rust reforming,” anti corrosion pain, then a final paint sometime in the future when we decide what we want. 
• new garden bench seat is complete (weighing a ton - some heavy duty “everything resistant” dense wood
• Garden -  plantings, raking, garden plot, etc.
• (It actually feels good to see this all together in an “accomplished” list.)

Other News

Food News

Avocado season is here. We’re eating them for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Can we really get tired of guacamol?  Pretty soon we’ll be into mango season. More smoothies, desserts and freezing projects! Lots of papayas almost ready. And, we seem to go “bananas” every few weeks.!

our own papayas

Ray

There have been no large waves for several weeks now. Good for Ray, because he wouldn’t have been able to surf anyway. First he cut his foot and it festered for a few days, then he over exerted himself resulting in a sore neck and shoulder, which seemed to travel into his back and hip. Now he’s recuperating from a spider bite. So it’s been a rough few weeks. Of course, as his friend, Dr. Mike would say, “Don’t do stupid super human things.” And, there’s the “Polish” factor, along with forgetting that he’s 67, and he’s not twenty anymore! He HAS read a ton of books, still the “Kitchen Nazi,” but pretty toned down, and when it’s working, he’s done a lot of the other surfing - on the Internet.

the driftwood bench - good for sitting,
dog sleeping, and dropping off
beach finds

Gill

Every day for me seems to be full. For example, the other day, I had just finished morning coffee, a little cleaning and reading yesterday’s news, when I got a message from Raquel that Denis had fish. After cleaning and filleting it, I made ceviche, froze the rest, cleaned up, and voila! it was lunch time. The girls came over for “escuela,” followed by a beach walk and a swim. We snuck in a relaxing cocktail and sunset watch (our daily winding down routine) And then it was time to prepare la cena (dinner). By the time we cleaned up, watched the news (in Espanol) it was time for bed. Each day seems to fill up. Incredible!

So my friends, stay healthy and grateful...